KQED Food Blog: Bay Area Bites: Bonne Année 2007 de Paris!
Bay Area Bites: culinary rants & raves from bay area foodies and professionals
Previous Posts
Molasses in January
Tracking Kona Coffee on Hwy 11, Part 2
Cook by the Book: Whole Grains Every Day Every Way
Links Around the Bay
Hmong New Year Festival
Hoppin' John
Check, Please! Bay Area: Radio DJ Special
Tracking Kona Coffee on Hwy 11, Part I
Bay Area Cookbooks 2006
Top 10 Tastes of 2006
 
 
BAB Guidelines

'Bay Area Bites' is part of KQED's Blog Authors Collaborative. Blog contributors and commentators are solely responsible for their content. If you're interested in writing or contributing to a blog on kqed.org, email us with your idea.
 
Saturday, January 06, 2007
Bonne Année 2007 de Paris!

pork loin stuffed with dried apricots and cranberries in Sauterne and tied with dental floss...

No culinary disasters to speak of occurred this holiday however it was not without its hair-raising, stress-inducing, blood-vessel-bursting, screaming-for-wine moments. Bare with me here....

Freak-out #1: 4:30pm Start cooking for 11 people who are arriving at 8:00pm. Yes, start. Luckily, we had already shopped...well sort of. Two more people joined the festivities at the last minute so that morning I ran to the market for more veggies, to Pascal the baker for the baguettes and brioche, and to my blue-eyed butcher Serge for another pork loin. We were all tres jetlagged so an afternoon nap was a must to get through the night. I re-woke up around 4:15pm, and began chopping and blanching and peeling and melting and whisking and grating like a mad woman.

Pierre arrived back around 6pm and I immediately started barking orders. "Toast the brioche, juice and zest the lemon, mix the blue cheese, assemble the endive, help me tie up the pork, turn off the carrots, make the potatoes, oh and by the way we are out of olive oil, butter and Roquefort and it's Sunday night and no stores are open. AAAAAK!" John made two market runs before the first guests arrived. I don't know why I stress over these things. Two years ago, we didn't shop for food until 6pm that night(!!!) and everything turned out great. Pierre and John are so low-key in the kitchen I should just follow their lead but I guess it is the perfectionist or more likely the control freak in me coming screaming out...

Freak-out #2: 8:15pm First guests arrive and I am still in the kitchen in my big, brown, fuzzy robe (one of Oprah's "favorite things" and God love her for it) and matching big, brown, fuzzy slippers, resembling a bear more than a human according to Pierre, with wet hair and no make up. Not a sight I would wish on anyone. I heard one of the guests in the hallway ask "Should I bring the wine in the kitchen?" to which I promptly replied (read: screamed) "NOOOO!" Needless to say, no one dared approach the kitchen until after I had slinked (slunk? slunked?) off to my room to get ready.


toasted brioche cooling on the dish rack :)

A few minutes into drying my hair, I realized that I needed to relax if I was going to enjoy the evening so I opened my door and called (read: screamed) to John for a glass of wine, emphasizing the "now" part of the request, as in "Can you please bring me a glass of wine... NOOOOW?!" Five minutes later no wine and still cranky, I stomped down the hall, still bedecked in Oprah's favorite things with half a head of wet hair, to secure my glass of happy juice. I went back to my room, cranked iTunes, sipped my wine, finished drying the other half of my hair, and attempted to make myself look presentable...



Now in spite of what you have just read above, John, Pierre and I actually have a great time cooking together and it's always a collaborative effort of some sort usually involving much laughter and many cocktails. We had three pork loins (filet mignon de porc) so we decided to make it two different ways. John makes an ethereal herb-mustard pork tenderloin while I thought I'd try something new (new for me anyways) and stuff it with dried apricots and cranberries cooked in Sauterne. It was dental floss to the rescue, again, as I discovered I had used all my twine to secure my suitcases over the past few months of travel. Pierre held the meat together as I tried to keep the fruit from gushing out while tying knots with the slippery floss. It wasn't pretty but it got the job done.


John browning the pork and Eric the Actor mugging for the camera as usual...occupational hazard I guess :)

John made a sauce of the mustard-herb "sucs" (from my cooking school workbook, sucs are the caramelized proteins that form on the bottom of a roasting or saute pan as items are browned) from the roasting pan and cooked it with a healthy heaping or two of creme fraiche. Sublime. I cooked my pork loins in 2 cups of sauterne surrounded with the rest of the dried fruit. I made a sauce of the cooked fruit with a little more, ok a lot more Sauterne, some water and a few tablespoons of flour to thicken. Both were spectacular, mine much to my amazement!

New Year's Eve dinner kicked off with a delicious pepper foie gras made by a small farmer who sells his treats at a fromagerie off rue Montorgueil. The label reads: foie gras, sel (salt), poivre (pepper). C'est tout! That's all. No nitrates, coloring, etc. Pure, silky, meltingly fabulous foie gras speckled through with black pepper. We served it with grilled baguette slices and sides of oignon confit and fig confit along with a smooth Sauterne to lasso all the flavors and textures into a surreal 'degustation'. We were so hungry we forgot to take photos.

For the baby carrots, I simply blanched them first then a quick saute with butter to glaze them and warm them through. The haricots-verts I also blanched then finished sauteing with toasted sliced almonds and tossed with a snow flurry of Roquefort. I froze the Roquefort that easily grated on my microplane, resulting in a bunny slope of blue and white fluff. For the Gratin Dauphinois, I peeled and cut while Pierre assembled the layers of potatoes interspersed with blobs of creme fraiche (we later added cream to thin it out and make it more spreadable) and shredded Comte cheese. Baked for an hour, we gave it a final shot under the broiler to brown the top layer of ooey gooey cheese. I ate it for the next two days! Dessert was my standard flourless chocolate decadence hearts with raspberries, once again too frenzied to take a picture but you've seen it many times here before. Bonne Appetit et Bonne Annee 2007!



Bonne Annee! Happy New Year!
31 decembre 2006 - 1 janvier 2007
chez Laura, John et Pierre

Veuve Cliquot Champagne

Tomates Cerises, Noix de Cajou et Amandes - Cherry Tomatoes, Cashews, Almonds

Saumon Fume sur Brioche Grillee avec Citron Creme Fraiche - Smoked Salmon on Toasted Brioche with Lemon-Creme Fraiche



Endive au Roquefort Creme Fraiche et Framboises - Endive with Roquefort Creme Fraiche and Raspberries



Sauterne

Foie Gras au Poivre
Baguette Grille, Oignons Confit, Figues Confit

Vins de Bordeaux

Filet Mignon de Porc aux Fruits Secs avec Sauce aux Fruits Secs et Sauterne



Filet Mignon de Porc aux Herbes de Provence et Moutarde avec Sauce a la Moutarde et Creme Fraiche



Gratin Dauphinois



Carottes Sautees avec Beurre - Sauteed Carrots with Butter



Haricots-Verts avec Amandes et Roquefort - Green Beans with Sliced Almonds and Roquefort



Gateau Chocolat avec Framboises - Chocolate Decadence with Raspberries



et plus de Champagne......

Cheers! Happy New Year! Bonne Annee 2007!

(FYI, this menu above was proof-read by a real French person so please refrain from any snarky comments about my French spelling or grammar. Accents I can't help, tell blogger.com)


Filet Mignon de Porc aux Fruits Secs



I made this up on the fly so take my instructions with a big grain of salt, pun intended.

1. Cut pork loin in half but not all the way through and leave about 1-2 inches on each end.

2. Fill with chopped apricots and cranberries. Tie with kitchen twine or dental floss in a pinch. sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3. Place in roasting pan and spread the rest of the dried fruit around it and add 2 cups of sauterne to the pan.

4. Roast in a 400F oven for 20-30 minutes.



5. Take out and set roast aside to rest. Scoop fruit into a small sauce pan.

6. Add a cup of Sauterne and water each and reduce. Add 1-2 tablespoons of flour slowly to thicken.



7. Remove string (or dental floss) from pork. Slice pork on the bias and spoon fruit sauce over each piece.


Gratin Dauphinos



1. Peel and slice potatoes about 1/4" thick

2. Grate cheese (we used Comte) and thin out creme fraiche with a little bit of cream.

3. Layer potatoes then cheese then creme fraiche. Repeat until about an inch from the top of the dish. Stop with the cheese on top.

4. Cook in a 400F oven for an hour. If the top isn't brown and bubbly, put it under the broiler for a few minutes to brown the cheese.

Bonne Cuisinez!
 
 

6 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

What an amazing feast!! It reminds me of why I moved to France. Of course one doesn't have to live in France to eat like this, but I find that I'm much more inspired to. When I lived in the UK, food was always second behind work. It is the famous quote "The English eat to live, the French live to eat". Anyway, loved this post. I had never though of freezing Roquefort, so that is another handy tip too.

1/06/2007 1:16 PM

 
Blogger Jann said...

Oh-my-gawd!This was a feast not a dinner!You really know how to live and so do your friends-"and" they come and cook "and" you are in your bathrobe with guests arriving "and" you ring for wine while putting on your face-why wasn't I invited? I could have set the table for you!

1/06/2007 8:38 PM

 
Blogger cucina testa rossa said...

Thanks Robert! The French most certainly live to eat ~ one of my favorite aspects of their culture, that and the very civilized evening aperitif :)

Jann :D you're always invited. My friends who cook with me are actually my flatmates so we cover each other. Ohe shops while one chops while the other primps and then we switch off...

1/07/2007 6:07 AM

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Nicely done!

I've never tried tying roasts with dental floss. I'm going to assume you used the unwaxed kind. Something to remember.

- Chubbypanda

1/07/2007 8:32 PM

 
Blogger cucina testa rossa said...

merci chubbypanda ~ yes, it was unwaxed and we've used it more than once in a pinch. we tied two lamb shoulders together around a spit on a rotisserie as well as trussed chickens and now our pork loin. just like my dish rack has doubled as a salad spinner and a cooling rack :)

1/08/2007 4:15 PM

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I am kind of obsessed with the recurring roquefort/endive/raspberry apero snack and have vowed to make it for an upcoming cocktail party. By the way, I study at the FCI too and reading your blog always makes me feel hopeful for the future.

4/29/2007 6:46 PM

 

Post a Comment

<< Home

Locate CP Restaurants:
Check, Please! Google Map
 
KQED Food Sites
Check, Please! Bay Area
Jacques Pépin Celebrates!
Jacques Pépin:
Fast Food My Way
Jacques Pépin:
The Apprentice
Jacques Pépin:
The Complete Pépin
KQED Wine Club
KQED.org Cooking
Weir Cooking in the City
 
Tasty Food Sites
CHOW
Chowhound SF
Crushpad
CUESA
CulinaryCorps
Eat Local Challenge
Edible San Francisco
Epicurious
eGullet.org
Food Network
Food Talk
Group Recipes
Hungry Magazine
KTEH Food
Leite's Culinaria
Locavores
Mighty Foods
NPR: Food
Om Organics
Serious Eats
SFGate: Food
SFGate: Wine
SF Station: Restaurants
Slow Food SF
Top Chef
Wikimedia Commons: Food & Drink
Yahoo! Food
Yelp: Reviews
 
Tangy Food Blogs
101 Cookbooks
A Full Belly
Accidental Hedonist
agoodfoodblog
An Obsession with Food
Anna's Cool Finds
Becks & Posh
Between Meals
Blogsoop
Bunny Foot
Butter Pig
Cellar Rat
Chez Pim
Chocolate & Zucchini
Confessions of a
Restaurant Whore
Cooking For Engineers
Cooking with Amy
Cucina Testa Rossa
Culinary Muse
Denise's Kitchen
Digesty-SF
Eater SF
Eggbeater
Extramsg.com
Feed & Supply
Food Blog S'cool
Food Musings
Food Porn Watch
Gastronomie
Hedonia
I'm Mad and I Eat
In Praise of Sardines
Jatbar
Knife's Edge
Life Begins at 30
Love and Cooking
MeatHenge
Mental Masala
Moveable Feast
Nosheteria
Organic Day
Passionate Eater
San Francisco Gourmet
SF City Eats
Simply Recipes
Spicetart
The Amateur Gourmet
Tablehopper
The Ethicurean
The Food Section
The Grub Report
The Petite Pig
The Wine Makers Wife
Vin Divine
Vinography
VirgoBlue
Wandering Spoon
Well Fed Network
Word Eater
World on a Plate
Yummy Chow
 
 
   
Search BAB

Eye Candy: Food Photos
BAB on flickr.com
Join Flickr for free and share your photos with the Bay Area Bites and Beyond group pool.
 
Food Books
 
The Moosewood Cookbook
by Mollie Katzen
 
Baking: From My Home to Yours
by Dorie Greenspan
 
Grand Livre de Cuisine: Alain Ducasse's Desserts and Pastries
by Alain Ducasse, Frederic Robertmison
 
The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking and Entertaining
by Cheryl Alters Jamison, Bill Jamison
 
Tasty: Get Great Food on the Table Every Day
by Roy Finamore
 
Whole Grains Every Day, Every Way
by Lorna Sass
 
The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa
by Marcus Samuelsson
 
Michael Mina: The Cookbook
by Michael Mina, Photographer: Karl Petzktle
 
What to Eat
by Marion Nestle
 
The Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals
by Michael Pollan
 
Essence of Chocolate: Recipes for Baking and Cooking with Fine Chocolate
by John Scharffenberger, Robert Steinberg
 
Romancing the Vine: Life, Love, and Transformation in the Vineyards of Barolo
by Alan Tardi
 
What to Drink with What You Eat: The Definitive Guide to Pairing Food with Wine, Beer, Spirits, Coffee, Tea -- Even Water -- Based on Expert Advice from America's Best Sommeliers
by Andrew Dornenburg, Karen Page, Michael Sofronski
 
The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook: Stories and Recipes for Southerners and Would-be Southerners
by Matt Lee, Ted Lee
 
Bread Matters: The State of Modern Bread and a Definitive Guide to Baking Your Own
by Andrew Whitley
 
Coloring the Seasons: A Cook's Guide
by Allegra McEvedy
 
All-new Complete Cooking Light Cookbook
by Anne C. Cain
 
Modern Garde Manger
by Robert B. Garlough
 
The Spice and Herb Bible
by Ian Hemphill, Kate Hemphill
 
The Improvisational Cook
by Sally Schneider
 
Lunch Lessons: Changing the Way We Feed Our Children
by Ann Cooper, Lisa M. Holmes
 
Cradle of Flavor: Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Singapore and Malaysia
by James Oseland
 
My Life in France
by Julia Child, Alex Prud'Homme
 
A Passion for Ice Cream: 95 Recipes for Fabulous Desserts
by Emily Luchett, Sheri Giblin (photographer)
 
Au Pied De Cochon -- The Album
by Martin Picard
 
Memories of Philippine Kitchens
by Amy Besa, Romy Dorotan
 
Simple Chinese Cooking
by Kylie Kwong
 
 
An Invitation to Indian Cooking
by Madhur Jaffrey
 
Hungry Planet
by Peter Menzel, Faith D'Aluisio
 
Sunday Suppers at Lucques : Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table
by Suzanne Goin, Teri Gelber
 
Simple Soirees: Seasonal Menus for Sensational Dinner Parties
by Peggy Knickerbocker, Christopher Hirsheimer (Photographer)
 
The Cook's Book
by Jill Norman
 
Molto Italiano : 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home
by Mario Batali
 
Nobu Now
by Nobuyuki Matsuhisa
 
Cheese : A Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Best
by Max Mccalman, David Gibbons
 
Bones : Recipes, History, and Lore
by Jennifer McLagan
 
Whiskey : The Definitive World Guide
by Michael Jackson
 
The New American Cooking
by Joan Nathan
 
ChocolateChocolate
by Lisa Yockelson
 
Easy Entertaining: Everything You Need to Know About Having Parties at Home
by Darina Allen
 
Cooking at De Gustibus: Celebrating 25 Years of Culinary Innovation
by Arlene Feltman Sailhac
 
Dough: Simple Contemporary Breads
by Richard Bertinet
 
Chocolate Obsession: Confections and Treats to Create and Savor
by Michael Recchiuti, Fran Gage, Maren Caruso
 
The Food Substitutions Bible: More Than 5,000 Substitutions for Ingredients, Equipment And Techniques
by David Joachim
 
Recipes: A Collection for the Modern Cook
by Susan Spungen
 
Spices of Life: Simple and Delicious Recipes for Great Health
by Nina Simonds
 
Mangoes & Curry Leaves: Culinary Travels Through the Great Subcontinent
by Jeffrey Alford, Naomi Duguid
 
Chocolate: A Bittersweet Saga of Dark and Light
by Mort Rosenblum
 
Vegetable Love: A Book for Cooks
by Barbara Kafka, Christopher Styler
 
A History of Wine in America: From Prohibition to the Present
by Thomas Pinney
 
Fonda San Miguel: Thirty Years Of Food And Art
by Tom Gilliland, Miguel Ravago, Virginia B. Wood
 
Matzoh Ball Gumbo: Culinary Tales of the Jewish South
by Marcie Cohen Ferris
 
Washoku: Recipes From The Japanese Home Kitchen
by Elizabeth Andoh, Leigh Beisch
 
 
Weir Cooking in the City: More than 125 Recipes and Inspiring Ideas for Relaxed Entertaining
by Joanne Weir
 
Rick Stein's Complete Seafood
by Rick Stein
 
The Great Scandinavian Baking Book
by Beatrice A. Ojakangas
 
Serena, Food & Stories: Feeding Friends Every Hour of the Day
by Serena Bass
 
John Ash: Cooking One on One: Private Lessons in Simple, Contemporary Food from a Master Teacher
by John Ash
 
The New Mayo Clinic Cookbook: Eating Well for Better Health
by Donald Hensrud, M.D., Jennifer Nelson, R.D. & Mayo Clinic Staff
 
Foods of the Americas: Native Recipes and Traditions
by Fernando and Marlene Divina
 
The Provence Cookbook
by Patricia Wells
 
Olive Trees and Honey: A Treasury of Vegetarian Recipes from Jewish Communities Around the World
by Gil Marks
 
Last Chance to Eat: The Fate of Taste in a Fast Food World
by Gina Mallet
 
Bouchon
by Thomas Keller
 
A Blessing of Bread: The Many Rich Traditions of Jewish Bread Baking Around the World
by Maggie Glezer
 
All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking
by Molly Stevens
 
On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen
by Harold McGee
 
Entertaining: Inspired Menus For Cooking with Family and Friends
by George Dolese
 
The Breath of a Wok: Unlocking the Spirit of Chinese Wok Cooking Through Recipes and Lore
by Grace Young, Alan Richardson
 
Cooking New American: How to Cook the Food You Love to Eat
by Fine Cooking Magazine
 
The Japanese Kitchen: A Book of Essential Ingredients with 200 Authentic Recipes
by Kimiko Barber
 
Arthur Schwartz's New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes
by Arthur Schwartz
 
Poet of the Appetites: The Lives and Loves of M.F.K. Fisher
by Joan Reardon
 
Bread: A Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes
by Jeffrey Hamelman
 
Everyday Dining with Wine
by Andrea Immer
 
 
Copyright © 2005-2008 KQED. All rights reserved.