Growing up in Texas, I was surrounded by an incredible range of regional specialties that emerged from a surprisingly diverse culture. (You might not think of Texas as being diverse, but the state is actually made up of a wide variety of cultures. The Latino population alone makes up more than a third of the entire population of Texas.)



Texas-style BBQ pork ribs and melt-in-your-mouth beef brisket; flaky biscuits (often served with sausage gravy; an ode to the South); Tex-mex fajitas, drunken beans, carne asada tacos, and Chico's migas; the best Vietnamese food I've ever had (including Vietnamese roast chicken and sticky rice and bowls of rice noodles topped with crisp-fried pork rolls); chicken fried steak with cream gravy (um, never my favorite, but it was my brother-the-vegetarian's most requested meal as a child); and lots of pecan everything.

Much of the food in Texas is not for the faint of heart. It is hearty down-home grub. Very hearty. But when it's done right, it is oh so delicious. And here in California, it is quite difficult to find. I often woke to the smell of my mom's biscuits in the oven, and when I first moved here I sought out those delicious, light, and flakey treats. The best that I've found so far are at Ella's, but given that the restaurant is not only out of the way for me, and way too busy on weekends, I took to making my own.

Over the years I've not only perfected my biscuit hands, but also my biscuit recipe. I find that baking powder biscuits are lighter and fluffier than buttermilk biscuits, but you get a lot more flavor from buttermilk. I also tend to use both butter and vegetable shortening in my biscuits, so I maximize my flavor:flake ratio (I use the same philosophy with my pastry dough).

This recipe has been adapted from numerous classic baking powder and buttermilk biscuit recipes (all of which, including mine, are quite similar). Remember that the key to successful biscuits is not overworking the dough. Mix it JUST until it comes together and try to work quickly and lightly.

Buttermilk Biscuits

2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into chunks
2/3 cup buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 425F and place the rack just above the middle of the oven. Butter a sturdy baking sheet.

In a mixing bowl, using a fork, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Sprinkle the shortening and butter over the flour and, using a pastry cutter or two table knives, cut the shortening and butter into the flour until it is about the size of small peas. Run your fingers through the flour mixture to make sure there aren't any big chunks hiding out. Add the buttermilk all at once and stir together just until the dough comes together.

Dump the dough onto a floured work surface and lightly press together into a disk about 1/2-inch thick. Cut out biscuits using a 2 1/2-inch biscuit cutter place on the baking sheet about 1 inch apart.

Bake for about 12 minutes until the tops are golden. Enjoy with a drizzle of local honey or fresh strawberry jam.

And don't let your dog steal the biscuits! (He has good taste)