KQED Food Blog: Bay Area Bites: Le Soufflé ~ Le Oooh, Le Ahhh
Bay Area Bites: culinary rants & raves from bay area foodies and professionals
Previous Posts
Check, Please! Bay Area premieres
Cheeses Christ Superstar!
Take 5 with Colton Harmon
Direct Fundraising, Gourmet Style
Scary Food
Une Énigme De Chocolat ~ A Chocolate Conundrum
Oktoberfest
Restaurant Le Cinq à l’Hôtel Four Seasons George V...
Me to a Tea
Lavender Infused Crème Anglaise
 
 
BAB Guidelines

'Bay Area Bites' is part of KQED's Blog Authors Collaborative. Blog contributors and commentators are solely responsible for their content. If you're interested in writing or contributing to a blog on kqed.org, email us with your idea.
 
Friday, November 04, 2005
Le Soufflé ~ Le Oooh, Le Ahhh


Few dishes elicit such a visceral reaction quite like a precariously towering, steaming soufflé puffed up in all it's glory. Upon placement, a purring of oooohs and ahhhhhhs commence, ending only when the last bite of these delectable clouds has been consumed. So why is it that something so physiologically powerful is so darn hard to make right and so easy to make wrong? A myriad of landmines are buried on the path to a perfect soufflé such as over beating the egg whites, letting the whipped egg whites stand too long, a too hot oven, a too cold oven, etc... which is why I don't venture down this road too often.

So from where did this enigma hail? No one can pinpoint a date or a person solely responsible though it is undeniably a French culinary invention and to say otherwise would incite nothing short of a revolution. Earliest mentions date back to the late 18th century where it was served at La Grande Taverne de Londres in Paris by Chef Beauvilliers whom Brillat-Savarin lauded as "...for more than fifteen years the most famous restaurateur in Paris." Pas mal (not bad)! Marie Antoine Carême describes the technique in great detail in his book, Patissier Royal Parisien. It seems that for nearly 200 years, cooks have been baffled by this collapsing conundrum.



Soufflé, from the verb souffler, which means "to blow up" or "puff up" is a rather accurate description of what happens to this combination of a base, usually of flavored cream sauce or purée which transports the flavor, and beaten egg whites which create the lift. So far, so good. I have a huge jar of passion fruit purée so I thought pourquoi pas (why not)? I adapted a recipe from Marcus Samuelson, chef at Aquavit in New York City. His recipe calls for the juice of one lime but my passion fruit purée is so tart that I made the executive decision to pass that item. Sorry, you can take the girl out of the Valley... Bon courage (good luck)!

Passion Fruit Soufflé



• 8 egg whites
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 tbsp water
• 1 vanilla bean, cut & scraped (I was out so I used 1 tsp vanilla extract)
• 1 cup passion fruit purée
• butter & sugar (for brushing on ramekins)

1. Preheat oven to 400° F.

2. Rub six ramekins with butter at room temperature and coat with sugar. Place in fridge until ready to fill.

Note: Take a pastry brush (I use a regular paint brush from the hardware store and run it through the dishwasher first) and brush up and down the sides like ChaChi in Karate Kid -- wax on wax off paint up paint down, I know I'm dating myself -- and coat with sugar. This technique is called chimiser (shi-mee-zay). This creates up and down ridges which helps the soufflé climb up the side of the dish. See Chef John, I was paying attention!

3. Bring water, vanilla bean and sugar to a boil.

4. Whisk egg whites with an electric mixer until soft peaks form.

5. Add in the sugar /water /vanilla liquid. Whisk again with a warm whisk until stiff peaks form.

6. Gently fold in passion fruit purée with a spatula.

7. Fill ramekins with the mixture and bake for 7-10 minutes based on your oven.

8. Remove gingerly from oven, carefully not to knock it against anything, and serve immediately.

9. Hear oooohs and ahhhhhs.

10. Eat.



If you have a hankering for a soufflé and happen to in my hood, an old Paris institution aptly named Le Soufflé is serving them for starter, main course and dessert with delicacies such as asparagus soufflé, chicken soufflé, seafood soufflé and one of the most mindblowing desserts I've ever had, the Grand Marnier soufflé. The waiter sets it in front of you for a moment so you can inhale the orange aroma wafting upward before plunging his spoon in a few times and dousing it with Grand Marnier. Le Oooh. Le Ahhh. Le Purrr.

______________________

Le Soufflé
36, rue du Mont Thabor
75001 Paris, France
+33 1 42 60 27 19
(M) #1, #12, #8 Concorde
 
 

1 Comments:

Blogger Marc said...

October was a big month for souffles in blog-land, with souffles the theme of Is My Blog Burning #20 (a.k.a., "Has My Blog Fallen?"), organized by Kitchen Chick. Over 50 bloggers from around the world joined IMBB #20, with over 70 different souffles contributed (summaries of the Savory Souffles and of the Sweet Souffles).

Also, the October 21 "Critics Choice" on the SF Chron Restaurant Page was Dazzling Souffles. It includes very short reviews of 11 places in the SF Bay Area that have souffles of note on their menus (or as the menu at Cafe Jacqueline in North Beach).

11/04/2005 10:26 AM

 

Post a Comment

Links to this post:

Create a Link

<< Home

Locate CP Restaurants:
Check, Please! Google Map
 
KQED Food Sites
Check, Please! Bay Area
Jacques Pépin Celebrates!
Jacques Pépin:
Fast Food My Way
Jacques Pépin:
The Apprentice
Jacques Pépin:
The Complete Pépin
KQED Wine Club
KQED.org Cooking
Weir Cooking in the City
 
Tasty Food Sites
CHOW
Chowhound SF
Crushpad
CUESA
CulinaryCorps
Eat Local Challenge
Edible San Francisco
Epicurious
eGullet.org
Food Network
Food Talk
Group Recipes
Hungry Magazine
KTEH Food
Leite's Culinaria
Locavores
Mighty Foods
NPR: Food
Om Organics
Serious Eats
SFGate: Food
SFGate: Wine
SF Station: Restaurants
Slow Food SF
Top Chef
Wikimedia Commons: Food & Drink
Yahoo! Food
Yelp: Reviews
 
Tangy Food Blogs
101 Cookbooks
A Full Belly
Accidental Hedonist
agoodfoodblog
An Obsession with Food
Anna's Cool Finds
Becks & Posh
Between Meals
Blogsoop
Bunny Foot
Butter Pig
Cellar Rat
Chez Pim
Chocolate & Zucchini
Confessions of a
Restaurant Whore
Cooking For Engineers
Cooking with Amy
Cucina Testa Rossa
Culinary Muse
Denise's Kitchen
Digesty-SF
Eater SF
Eggbeater
Extramsg.com
Feed & Supply
Food Blog S'cool
Food Musings
Food Porn Watch
Gastronomie
Hedonia
I'm Mad and I Eat
In Praise of Sardines
Jatbar
Knife's Edge
Life Begins at 30
Love and Cooking
MeatHenge
Mental Masala
Moveable Feast
Nosheteria
Organic Day
Passionate Eater
San Francisco Gourmet
SF City Eats
Simply Recipes
Spicetart
The Amateur Gourmet
Tablehopper
The Ethicurean
The Food Section
The Grub Report
The Petite Pig
The Wine Makers Wife
Vin Divine
Vinography
VirgoBlue
Wandering Spoon
Well Fed Network
Word Eater
World on a Plate
Yummy Chow
 
 
   
Search BAB

Eye Candy: Food Photos
BAB on flickr.com
Join Flickr for free and share your photos with the Bay Area Bites and Beyond group pool.
 
Food Books
 
The Moosewood Cookbook
by Mollie Katzen
 
Baking: From My Home to Yours
by Dorie Greenspan
 
Grand Livre de Cuisine: Alain Ducasse's Desserts and Pastries
by Alain Ducasse, Frederic Robertmison
 
The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking and Entertaining
by Cheryl Alters Jamison, Bill Jamison
 
Tasty: Get Great Food on the Table Every Day
by Roy Finamore
 
Whole Grains Every Day, Every Way
by Lorna Sass
 
The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa
by Marcus Samuelsson
 
Michael Mina: The Cookbook
by Michael Mina, Photographer: Karl Petzktle
 
What to Eat
by Marion Nestle
 
The Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals
by Michael Pollan
 
Essence of Chocolate: Recipes for Baking and Cooking with Fine Chocolate
by John Scharffenberger, Robert Steinberg
 
Romancing the Vine: Life, Love, and Transformation in the Vineyards of Barolo
by Alan Tardi
 
What to Drink with What You Eat: The Definitive Guide to Pairing Food with Wine, Beer, Spirits, Coffee, Tea -- Even Water -- Based on Expert Advice from America's Best Sommeliers
by Andrew Dornenburg, Karen Page, Michael Sofronski
 
The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook: Stories and Recipes for Southerners and Would-be Southerners
by Matt Lee, Ted Lee
 
Bread Matters: The State of Modern Bread and a Definitive Guide to Baking Your Own
by Andrew Whitley
 
Coloring the Seasons: A Cook's Guide
by Allegra McEvedy
 
All-new Complete Cooking Light Cookbook
by Anne C. Cain
 
Modern Garde Manger
by Robert B. Garlough
 
The Spice and Herb Bible
by Ian Hemphill, Kate Hemphill
 
The Improvisational Cook
by Sally Schneider
 
Lunch Lessons: Changing the Way We Feed Our Children
by Ann Cooper, Lisa M. Holmes
 
Cradle of Flavor: Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Singapore and Malaysia
by James Oseland
 
My Life in France
by Julia Child, Alex Prud'Homme
 
A Passion for Ice Cream: 95 Recipes for Fabulous Desserts
by Emily Luchett, Sheri Giblin (photographer)
 
Au Pied De Cochon -- The Album
by Martin Picard
 
Memories of Philippine Kitchens
by Amy Besa, Romy Dorotan
 
Simple Chinese Cooking
by Kylie Kwong
 
 
An Invitation to Indian Cooking
by Madhur Jaffrey
 
Hungry Planet
by Peter Menzel, Faith D'Aluisio
 
Sunday Suppers at Lucques : Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table
by Suzanne Goin, Teri Gelber
 
Simple Soirees: Seasonal Menus for Sensational Dinner Parties
by Peggy Knickerbocker, Christopher Hirsheimer (Photographer)
 
The Cook's Book
by Jill Norman
 
Molto Italiano : 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home
by Mario Batali
 
Nobu Now
by Nobuyuki Matsuhisa
 
Cheese : A Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Best
by Max Mccalman, David Gibbons
 
Bones : Recipes, History, and Lore
by Jennifer McLagan
 
Whiskey : The Definitive World Guide
by Michael Jackson
 
The New American Cooking
by Joan Nathan
 
ChocolateChocolate
by Lisa Yockelson
 
Easy Entertaining: Everything You Need to Know About Having Parties at Home
by Darina Allen
 
Cooking at De Gustibus: Celebrating 25 Years of Culinary Innovation
by Arlene Feltman Sailhac
 
Dough: Simple Contemporary Breads
by Richard Bertinet
 
Chocolate Obsession: Confections and Treats to Create and Savor
by Michael Recchiuti, Fran Gage, Maren Caruso
 
The Food Substitutions Bible: More Than 5,000 Substitutions for Ingredients, Equipment And Techniques
by David Joachim
 
Recipes: A Collection for the Modern Cook
by Susan Spungen
 
Spices of Life: Simple and Delicious Recipes for Great Health
by Nina Simonds
 
Mangoes & Curry Leaves: Culinary Travels Through the Great Subcontinent
by Jeffrey Alford, Naomi Duguid
 
Chocolate: A Bittersweet Saga of Dark and Light
by Mort Rosenblum
 
Vegetable Love: A Book for Cooks
by Barbara Kafka, Christopher Styler
 
A History of Wine in America: From Prohibition to the Present
by Thomas Pinney
 
Fonda San Miguel: Thirty Years Of Food And Art
by Tom Gilliland, Miguel Ravago, Virginia B. Wood
 
Matzoh Ball Gumbo: Culinary Tales of the Jewish South
by Marcie Cohen Ferris
 
Washoku: Recipes From The Japanese Home Kitchen
by Elizabeth Andoh, Leigh Beisch
 
 
Weir Cooking in the City: More than 125 Recipes and Inspiring Ideas for Relaxed Entertaining
by Joanne Weir
 
Rick Stein's Complete Seafood
by Rick Stein
 
The Great Scandinavian Baking Book
by Beatrice A. Ojakangas
 
Serena, Food & Stories: Feeding Friends Every Hour of the Day
by Serena Bass
 
John Ash: Cooking One on One: Private Lessons in Simple, Contemporary Food from a Master Teacher
by John Ash
 
The New Mayo Clinic Cookbook: Eating Well for Better Health
by Donald Hensrud, M.D., Jennifer Nelson, R.D. & Mayo Clinic Staff
 
Foods of the Americas: Native Recipes and Traditions
by Fernando and Marlene Divina
 
The Provence Cookbook
by Patricia Wells
 
Olive Trees and Honey: A Treasury of Vegetarian Recipes from Jewish Communities Around the World
by Gil Marks
 
Last Chance to Eat: The Fate of Taste in a Fast Food World
by Gina Mallet
 
Bouchon
by Thomas Keller
 
A Blessing of Bread: The Many Rich Traditions of Jewish Bread Baking Around the World
by Maggie Glezer
 
All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking
by Molly Stevens
 
On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen
by Harold McGee
 
Entertaining: Inspired Menus For Cooking with Family and Friends
by George Dolese
 
The Breath of a Wok: Unlocking the Spirit of Chinese Wok Cooking Through Recipes and Lore
by Grace Young, Alan Richardson
 
Cooking New American: How to Cook the Food You Love to Eat
by Fine Cooking Magazine
 
The Japanese Kitchen: A Book of Essential Ingredients with 200 Authentic Recipes
by Kimiko Barber
 
Arthur Schwartz's New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes
by Arthur Schwartz
 
Poet of the Appetites: The Lives and Loves of M.F.K. Fisher
by Joan Reardon
 
Bread: A Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes
by Jeffrey Hamelman
 
Everyday Dining with Wine
by Andrea Immer
 
 
Copyright © 2005-2008 KQED. All rights reserved.