KQED Food Blog: Bay Area Bites: Caramel Cake, The Recipe.
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Sunday, December 24, 2006
Caramel Cake, The Recipe.


I have recently completed a consulting job with Poulet, deli/restaurant with a humble, kitchy interior. Started by Marilyn Rinzler and the infamous Bruce Aidells, Poulet has stood in the same spot since 1979! With the hopes of providing honest, healthful food, with a chicken slant, it is still owned by Ms. Rinzler and manages to makes heaps more food than the diminuitive kitchen implies. Watch the TurnHere Poulet Movie by clicking on this link.

A family friend, Ms. Rinzler asked me one day last Spring if I could look at some of their baked good recipes and help her out with advice and suggestions. I began baking 2-3 days a week alongside Lucila Hernandez, Poulet's long term kitchen manager, to test the recipes they had on hand, and re-work them to provide a more viable repertoire of baked goods for their clientele and kitchen staff.



"What is this consulting thing you speak of?"

I get this question a lot. The exact sort of consulting I do depends on what I've been hired to do. It depends on how much time the employer wants me there. Being the overachieving, A-type of employee that I am, I tend to give a little something extra. Throw in some extra information they might not even know to ask for.

At Poulet I tested all the recipes, tasted them with the staff and fixed what needed fixing. I trained and taught Lucila better baking skills and techniques. I created Excel spread sheets for keeping track of what we made, sold and tossed. Seasonal fruit was bought and recipes created around what was at it's seasonal best. "Cake mixes" were made well in advance, so getting a baked good in and out of the much used oven took less time. While spending time re-working recipes I got a feel for who did what when. I learned that if I did not get there before 7 am, the lunchtime dessert could not arrive until after lunch had begun.

At Poulet the most important item is the chicken. And with one oven working overtime, my sweet things stood in a very long line for hot box space!

Commercial cooking and baking is all about streamlining. It's about efficiency. As cooks we are constantly finding way to have our food be sent out of our respective workplaces in the fastest way possible. "What can be done in advance without hurting the end product," could be our tag-line.



Amid the costing-out, training, rewriting recipes, testing and re-testing, writing a newsletter, photographing, spreading the word and tasting, I was able to create some favorites. Because most of my training has been in restaurants, I've spent little time making pretty frosted cakes, pre-packaged puddings and tart slices. So, as many of you know, I had a lot of fun at Poulet creating these sorts of items.

Although right at the beginning I began working on the caramel cake. And because so many of you have requested the recipe, here it is. Of course if you took my caramel class, you own the recipe and watched it being made!



CARAMEL CAKE with Caramelized Butter Frosting

10 Tablespoons UNSALTED BUTTER, ROOM TEMP
1 1/4 Cups SUGAR
1/2 teaspoon KOSHER SALT
1/3 Cup CARAMEL SYRUP*
2 each EGGS, ROOM TEMP
splash VANILLA EXTRACT
2 Cups AP FLOUR
1/2 teaspoon BAKING POWDER
2C MILK, ROOM TEMP

*Caramel syrup recipe follows

Preheat oven to 350F
Butter one tall 9" cake pan.

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter until smooth.
2. Add sugar and salt & cream until light and fluffy.
3. Slowly pour room temperature caramel syrup into bowl.
4. Scrape down bowl and increase speed. Add eggs/vanilla extract a little at a time, mixing well after each addition. Scrape down bowl again, beat mixture until light and uniform.
5. Sift flour and baking powder.
6. Turn mixer to lowest speed, and add one third of the dries.
7. When incorporated, add half of the milk, a little at a time.
8. Add another third of the dries, then the other half of the milk and finish with the dries. {This is called the dry, wet, dry, wet, drry method in cake making. It is often employed when there is a high proportion of liquid in the batter.}
9. Take off mixer and by hand, use a spatula to do a few last folds. making sure batter is uniform.

Place cake pan on cookie sheet or 1/2 sheet pan. Set first timer for 30 minutes, rotate pan and set timer for another 15-20 minutes. Your own oven will set the pace. Bake until sides pull away from the pan and skewer inserted in middle comes out clean. Cool cake completely before icing it. Cake will keep for three days unrefrigerated.



CARAMEL SYRUP

2 Cups SUGAR
1/2 Cup WATER

1 Cup water for "stopping"

1. In a small stainless steel saucepan, with tall sides, mix water and sugar until mixture feels like wet sand.
2. Brush down any stray sugar crystals with wet pastry brush.
3. Turn on heat to highest flame.
4. Cook until smoking slightly: dark amber.
5. When color is achieved, very carefully pour in one cup of water. Caramel will jump and sputter about! It is very dangerous, so have long sleeves on and prepared to step back.
6. Whisk over medium heat until it has reduced slightly and feels sticky between two fingers. {Obviously wait for it to cool on a spoon before touching it.}

For safety reasons, have ready a bowl of ice water to plunge your hands into if any caramel should land on your skin.



CARAMELIZED BUTTER FROSTING

12 tablespoons UNSALTED BUTTER
1 Pound CONFECTIONER'S SUGAR, SIFTED
4-6 Tablespoons HEAVY CREAM
2 teaspoons VANILLA EXTRACT
2-4 Tablespoons CARAMEL SYRUP
Kosher or sea salt to taste

1. Cook butter until brown.
2. Pour through a fine meshed sieve into a heatproof bowl, set aside to cool.
3. Pour cooled brown butter into mixer bowl.
4. In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle or whisk attachment, add confectioner's sugar a little at a time. When mixture looks to0 chunky to take any more, add a bit of cream and or caramel syrup. Repeat until mixture looks smooth and all confectioner's sugar has been incorporated. Add salt to taste.

Caramelized butter frosting will keep in fridge for up to a month.
To smooth out from cold, microwave a bit, then mix with paddle attachment until smooth and light.

The Caramel Cake is also wonderful on it's own. I've also been known to drizzle it with ganache, or serve it with whipped cream. You will be surprised how delicate the crumb is! The caramel not only adds flavor, it contributes to the cake's moist tenderness.

Enjoy!
 
 

8 Comments:

Blogger Santos said...

oh man. i'm trying this out tonight. congratulations on your many successes this year,and i look forward to seeing your inevitable skyrocketeyness to great heights in the new one!

12/26/2006 10:28 PM

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Good gods. If I could roll around in that cake, I would. Caramelicious!

- Chubbypanda

12/30/2006 10:34 AM

 
Blogger artemis said...

So this cake looks soooo good in the photos (and in Poulet's window case!)--but I've tried it three times now (first two with slight tweaks--cake flour instead of AP, etc.--that might have thrown something awry, but the last time exactly as it appears above) and all I get is a royal mess--dense, greasy, rubbery, nothing that's even close to a cake. Has anyone else gotten this recipe to work as written? Any chance an ingredient is missing or a quantity is off somewhere? Or has my luck just been abysmal?

8/09/2007 11:33 PM

 
Blogger shuna fish lydon said...

Artemis,

I'm so sorry you've had some problems making this delicious cake. Feel free to email me directly (there is an email link on Eggbeater), and I will try and work out with you what might be going awry.

Thanks & sorry!

8/25/2007 10:08 PM

 
Blogger Linda said...

Doesn't 2 Cups of milk sound excessive for only 2 cups of flour. I may be missing something, but maybe that's the problem.
Linda

10/10/2007 7:02 AM

 
Blogger shuna fish lydon said...

Linda,

this is by no means an easy cake to just whip-up. the method and the ingredients say this, yes.

a recipe is merely a guide. feel free to change amounts and methods to suit the cake you want in the end.

I found this recipe in the SF Chronicle and Flo Braker's name was on it. she is an amazing baker. her method was different and I changed it to suit my needs. so any experimentation you make is welcome!

thank you for the comment and question.

10/10/2007 11:24 AM

 
Anonymous masterbaker said...

masterbaker

I tried this cake in the restaurant Le Poulet a month ago and nearly fell off my seat. It was sensational. I hadn't had something that good since childhood (in the '50s when people really knew how to bake treats like caramel cake, butterscotch meringue pie, etc.). So I decided to make the pie myself. I prepare Thanksgiving dinner for a group of male friends and we always celebrate a friend's birthday at the same occasion. We normally order a cake from a good bakery but this year I wanted to surprize our friend with my own cake baked from scratch.

Well, first I tried other caramel cake recipes (i.e. easier ones) without success. So I finally decided to try the recipe now in question. I am not a professional baker but I can as they say "throw down" some dishes (African Americanese for "one can cook").

I followed fastidiously the recipe. The result was horrendous. The cake took forever to bake. The batter (before I poured into the cake pan) was too liquidy. It came out very rubbery, dense, flat. Moreover, the color was not caramel as was the one at the restaurant and in the photos. The taste was disappointing. I dumped it into a plastic bag and took it to the garbage only to notice how heavy it was. I thought I was in the gym again, exercising.

This is the third caramel cake in three days that I have tried to make. I think that I will resort to ordering from a bakery. This recipe could not possibly be correct.

11/19/2007 8:36 PM

 
Blogger shuna fish lydon said...

Hello MasterBaker,

I no longer consult at Poulet but I'm glad they are still making a cake I helped develop there.

There is a current post on my blog eggbeater concerning this cake and more through instruction is covered there.

This cake is not an easy cake to make, at all. This fact is only something I learned this year with comments such as yours coming to my attention.

I'm sorry it was not successful for you. If you google the cake you will find many other recipes which I hope will work out better for you.

11/23/2007 6:46 PM

 

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